AE82 Auto to Manual Conversion

This gearbox conversion will apply to all ae82 chassis corolla's and very similar with ee80 as well.
I have started with a jdm ae82 corolla FXGT 16v 4age with an A240E automatic slush box.
The gearbox I am swapping in is a C52 5-speed manual from an ae101 Trueno with 20v 4age.
From what I have seen.. the mounting points on all C series gearboxes are the same.. but the mounting brackets are all different depending which chassis they came from.. ae82, ae92, ae101, ae111 etc. The ae1#1 C-series gearbox has the starter motor on the intake side so the correct flex plate must be fitted.

All engine mount rubbers are different between ae82 and later chassis so you must use ae82 rubbers.
The 3 auto gearbox rubbers are different to manual rubbers, but the front rubber can still be used.
The auto L/H and Rear engine brackets and rubbers are not useable as they're a different shape. The front mount from auto can be used... as the front auto bracket is identical but the rubber has more meat in it.. which is not a bad thing. Also noticed there is an identification punch mark thru the metal housing of the front rubber, auto has an oval hole, manual has square hole.. the hole is positioned toward the rear when fitting it to the crossmember.
The R/H engine mount to the engine block is interchangeable so can use either ae82 or later 4age one.. but an ae82 r/h rubber must be used (auto & manual type are same).
The north/south crossmember is same between auto and manual so don't need to change it. The rear mount has 3 holes in the crossmember.. the manual uses the narrower two holes.

hydraulic clutch conversion:
parts needed...
use ae82 parts! it's as simple as that.
clutch pedal box and pedal.
manual brake pedal (not necessarily required if you don't mind the wider auto pedal)
clutch master cylinder
ae82 hydraulic lines along firewall with mounting bracket, and lines above gearbox
clutch slave cylinder
drill, center punch, grinder and file
etch primer/paint

I didn't have these parts to start with so messed around using ae101 clutch bits with mixed success. after mucking about i've just about replaced every ae101 part for the correct ae82 piece. So save yourself some time and use the correct ae82 bits.

The ae101 clutch pedal box can be used if you cut the extra spring thing off the side of it. (if you have climate control (C/C). i found the spring thing got in way of C/C actuator. cars without C/C may not have a problem? The ae101 clutch pedal itself is a slightly different shape which comes very close to touching the steering column.
The ae101 clutch master cylinder will bolt on but the connecting rod is too short by around 5mm.
There are a couple versions of clutch master available on each car so there's no definitive answer as to what fits and what doesn't.. try it and see. They have different type of fork on end of the rod. the ones with the cylinder thing have a shorter push rod.
You may be able to use ae101 clutch master cylinder if you swap the pushrod over to the longer ae82 rod?? or make a longer one.. as the ae101 rod is shorter by approx 10mm. ae92 rod is too long.
ae101 and ae92 clutch lines (that run along the firewall) are a different shape so wont fit. Use ae82 line for perfect fit. ae101 clutch line support bracket that bolts to brake bias valve on firewall is same dimensions as ae82 so could be used *but* only in conjunction with an ae101 rubber hose (which has different shape locating hole thru the mounting bracket).
Use clutch lines across top of gearbox to suit the gearbox.. not sure how many variations there are but just use whatever the box had originally along with clutch slave cylinder.

Flywheel & Clutch:
Use any 4age 8-bolt flywheel with a matching clutch and pressure plate. ae82 has a 200mm clutch surface, later 4age have a larger 215mm(?) clutch. As far as i know all use same gearbox input spline.

Mounting the manual pedal box:
An auto chassis needs to have 3 holes drilled/cut into firewall to mount the clutch master cylinder!
Easiest way i could think to do this is bolt the clutch pedal box under the dash loosely with the one top bolt. Adjust the pedal box around so you have the most clearance on the clutch pedal at all positions. Then hold the box there and mark the firewall for the bolt holes at this position. Center punch the markings then drill thru from the inside. you can then enlarge the holes (using a die grinder or file) from the engine bay side with a template of the clutch master flange. File and paint the hole edges to prevent corrosion.

Shifter and cables:
parts needed:
ae82 manual shifter with mounting bracket incl all clips and pins
ae82 manual shifter boot
ae82 manual selector cables with firewall plates and rubber seal
ae82 rubber bung for auto selector cable hole in firewall (below steering rack)

unbolt center console and pull out all the auto parts and replace with the manual ones. pretty simple. if you find there's not enough room to undo the firewall bolts for the selector cable.. loosen off the steering rack bolts and pull rack away from firewall for more room.

Misc parts:
Blanking inserts for center console and dash

The auto vehicle has an overdrive button in the center console.. replace this with a blank insert (coin holder etc). The dash has a gear position display insert to the right of the steering column (RHD cars).. Remove the gauge cluster , pop this insert out and replace with a blank insert.

NEUTRAL START SWITCH: with older corolla's the neutral start switch is located on the auto shifter.. but with the ae82 it's on the front of the auto gearbox. if you are converting to manual and not modifying the ae82 auto wiring loom and still using the ae82 starter circuit.. you need to at least bridge the fat black wires that plug in to the front of the auto gearbox gear selector. without doing this the engine wont start.
As i've used an ae101 auto loom and completely redwired it to suit manual.. there is only the starter circuit left. all the auto related wiring is gone. auto to manual conversion

pics to come...

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