Currently running an AE86 4age bigport bluetop engine and T50 22spline 5speed gearbox.
Good enough for a 15.7sec 1/4 mile.
4ag-zte Build Log: Latest at top...
03.06.2015
Not alot happening. Collected a few more coils to test fit from zebra car parts.. 2nzfe and 3sge beams. Bought brand new set of 8.9:1 4agze pistons and rings for $490 off trademe. Test fit a FENIX alloy rx3 crossflow radiator, wasn't ideal but could be made to work.
24.06.11
A trip down to pickapart to source parts for a friend ended in me going home with a 7afe at211 block ($120) with all sensors attached which will supply the alloy sump and crank and cam angle sensors. also bought a set of 2pin 1mz-fe coils ($38). The COP's fit down the 20v plug tubes but are too tall by about 10mm or so. the extensions can be pulled off and the rubber sheath slipped off too so these can be shortened with a bandsaw and tig welded together again. the coil part is larger than the 1zz-fe type coils. Have also collected a few types of butterfly valve for a sequential bypass system. The most suitable so far is an Estima 3c-te turbo diesel 55mm vacuum valve which has a TPS on it and a spring loaded arm with ball joint linkage. This can be attached easily to a diaphragm etc. Off one side has a 90' alloy pipe corner piece with air-temp sensor fitted. Downside is the butterfly disk has a few vent holes in it which will require filling.
22.08.10
Test fitted the 2tz-fze sc14 charger to see how mounts and plumbing would work. Due to water pump clearance on the inlet pipe, the charger can't sit forward without being spaced outwards also. Therefore the inner crank pulley is best used so that the charger sits as far back as possible. A custom lower mount will be required for plumbing the inlet pipe straight down and under the sump area. Also the bottom of the charger needs to be spaced outwards and the top pushed in to position the charger inlet pipe below the water pump inlet pipe.
In the pics below, the sc14 is sitting on top of a std 4agze lower mount. The 20v block pics are of the black top 20v engine with ae86 mounts fitted.     
14.03.10 Sourced more parts: some ST205 GT4 side feed injectors. apparently around 540cc which is bigger than the st185 versions. has red top but no part numbers? also have a 7afe oil pump and timing gear (lower cam gear) with VR sensor as pictured below.
 
22.12.09 put my CAD skills to use and drew up the custom cam belt pulley with crank angle timing teeth. basically using the dimensions of the 7afe pulley but with 20v BT belt tooth count. The pic with 3 pullies shows 7afe top-left, 20v top-right, custom bottom-middle.
 
26.01.09 more parts bought.. an sc14 from a 2tz-fze estima/previa. has a 7rib belt and 110mm pulley on the charger. this is compared to the 5rib 115mm or 120mm sc12 chargers therefore can run smaller crank pulley. also grabbed an ae92 remote thermostat and will work perfectly.. all hoses are pointing in the right direction when mounted where a 20v starter motor would usually sit under the quad throttles. fits better than an ae82 one.
Scored a set of st185 gen2 3sgte 440cc low imped side feed injectors to fit the 20v. denso #23250-74090. thanks pickas.
These should reliably handle 225hp at the fly on 3bar fuel pressure.. enough for stage one. Have modified the 20v p/s pump bracket to mount the 20v alternator low on the exhaust side. This was done by slotting the mounting holes 4mm and took another 1mm off the rear prong thing.. so alternator sits total 5mm back from where it would sit otherwise. Also had to grind some clearance on the underside of bracket to clear the alternator. from now on if i have an alternator fail on me.. i can fit up an oem 20v replacement. Have also modified an adjustable tensioner arm from a #####?
Bought 16v smallport water pump, backing plate and steel water intake pipe. 20v water pump impeller sticks out further from the pump housing than the 16v one.. so not a direct bolt in to the 16v backing plate. 16v pump could be used, tho need to grind a rib off where the cambelt cover sits on. I've now turned (15deg angle in a lathe) the backing plate to accept a std 20v water pump, so it can be a direct replacement in future. When fitted up with steel 16v n/a intake pipe, the sc12 contacts the pipe when pulled close to the block.. but 4agze intake pipe is shaped differently and clears it. The 20v knock sensor is now removed to be able to pull charger in fully. Will need to drill/tap the knock sensor thread in between cyl 3 & 4 (as found on 4agze), the boss is there to do it.
Looking into the use of the 16v fwd water pump and steel intake pipe rather than the 20v one. For reliability of steel rather than a rubber hose that can burst since it's hidden away under the charger and quad throttles. Found out the 4agze steel pipe drops down to clear the sc12's intake pipe before heading out to the rear, whereas fwd 16v bends away from the block before heading rearwards which contacts the sc. A solution to this is fabricate a stainless pipe from the water pump which can then be adapted to suit a remote thermostat. (a la ae82, ae92 or ae101). A rwd type 4age thermostat housing wont fit together with the supercharger.. I've bought another sc12 suitable for parts off trademe, if only the guy would finish the trade!! :(
rebuilding sc12 electromagnetic clutch... have skimmed the clutch surfaces as theres plenty life left in it.. but because the pulley bearing shat itself. seized up and spun on the shaft.. the shaft is now 0.2mm worn.. It's also cooked the coil. I was quoted an estimated $654 from toyota for new coil or $320 to have it rewound at local armature rewinders. doh its cheaper to buy a second hand charger. Now looking for replacement coil.. will lock the clutch solid in the mean time.
the pulley bearing is a double row deep groove sealed.. measuring 30id 47od 22.5wide.
 
Bought a oem 4age oil cooler sandwich plate.. this looks similar to the 20v oil filter spacer except has a thermostatic bypass valve to direct hot oil to a cooler. Two bolts are slightly wider apart otherwise the top half would interchange with the std 20v one. Also bought an oil cooler return fitting off the sump of a 7mgte so i'll drill a hole in the top of the 20v sump and weld a nut behind it to screw into. The turbo oil drain will be a separate fitting back to the sump.
Have modified the bottom s/c mount by milling 8mm off the underside of the bolt hole sharing the ae86 engine mount bracket so that the s/c mount sits on top of the engine mount.. lets see how many times i can say mount? it bolts up nicely anyways. A custom s/c top mount is required and can either be mounted off the intake manifold bolts or trumpet, or off the front of the engine where the alternator adjusting bracket would usually bolt to (in pic). You could modify the alternator bracket which has a spot for the dipstick tube to bolt to also.
  
A quick bolt together shows the supercharger fits under the quad throttles ok, but with the water pump-to-head pipe removed as it interferres. Will need to make a new top mount for the s/c. Using the std sc outlet pipe leaves no room for the knock sensor plug. there's enough room for a water pump pipe to come straight out under the intake but is cramped to try get it up to the head. The sc bottom mount bolts directly to the block. One of these bolts shares with the ae86 engine mount which also bolts directly to the block.. so one has to be modified.. and since the sc mount is thicker and has less load on it, seems ok to mill the back off it to mount on top of the engine mount.
 
Sourcing parts at this stage...
So far have bought a 4age blacktop 20v head with 45mm quad throttles, silvertop 20v block and internals, LX80 2L-T turbo-diesel diaphragm operated control valve, ae101 SC12 roots supercharger and mounts.
|
|
|
4age 20v blacktop |
20v silvertop block |
2L-T control valve |
|
