KE25 running gear
build parts list... |
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The Plan : 20v 4age twincharger | Y= Got/done. N= Not got | ||
Y *20v block |
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How the system works:- (Compound charged). |
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Pro's |
Con's |
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Engine : 20V 4A-GZ(T)E Since this car no longer needs to be daily driven, lets why not boost the crap out of it! The idea here is to use all the best parts the generations of 4age have to offer, and build them into a beast. The plan is to use the 20v silvertop bottom which has the larger 42mm crank journals, bigger gudgeons and oil squirters (compared to bluetop bigport 16v 4age). A silvertop 20v bottom end is apparently much the same as ae101 4agze with exception of the pistons, but much cheaper to purchase.. and have picked one up for $75. I've now sourced a black-top 20v engine that had run a big-end bearing from which the head and 45mm quad throttles will be used. Turbo will sit on a custom turbo manifold, feeding a front mounted intercooler, custom intake plenum made for the quad throttles with associated intercooler piping and controlled by an aftermarket Link G4 or similar ecu which also gives me the option of installing sequential coil-on-plug ignition so the distributor can be ditched rather than cutting the firewall. A custom water manifold off the back of the head needs to be sorted amongst other things. Some ideas for that here. The water system i plan to run is this. Gearbox : W58 close ratio 5speed Need to sort out a suitable bellhousing, either by fabricating a 4a engine flange to the front of a km36 5k/G52 bellhousing, or buy a Niteparts A-W bell, or make my own A-W casting which i'd prefer to use the fwd bolt pattern, then can mate the 4age to a stronger supra W57/W58 gearbox to keep things reliable. A custom driveshaft (lengthened st185 shaft) and gearbox crossmember made up to suit. This then will fit a std 4a-gze sized 9" flywheel/clutch without contact or a twinplate tilton etc. Also on the search for the US spec truck shifter position which is further forwards than even the ta63/ma61 shifter, which apparently is not quite forward enough to come through the factory ke25 shifter hole. Conversion Components shifter is another option. May require an aftermarket gearset if racing/drag racing with slicks. Fuel delivery: Plan to use an in-tank lift pump to feed fuel to an anti-surge tank. Sucking from the surge tank is two (sequentially staged) parallel mounted fuel pumps pumping through a new fuel feed line to the high pressure fuel filter in the engine bay, through the fuel rail (possibly a 2nd rail and set of injectors firing down the ports) and pressure regulator then back to the surge tank via a new return line. An overflow pipe at the top of surge tank runs back to the main tank. The tank breather uses the original ke2 vent pipe to the engine bay where a small charcoal canister and vsv burns off fuel vapours on decel and idle. Electronics: Wire in programmable ecu. Alarm installed with super trick anti-theft, tracking and paralysis inducing devices. Battery relocated to the rear to make room for turbo and cold air intake system. Exhaust: Going for a stainless 3" mandrel bent and lobster tail exhaust, possibly a high flow cat if new smog laws come into effect.. one or two resonators and a straight through muffler hanging off the rear. Car should be low enough to plumb exhaust under the diff and will need to section the gearbox crossmember so exhaust runs under it. I like a quiet exhaust and having a turbo also reduces noise somewhat compared to n/a so here's hoping a straight through exhaust will do the trick. Cooling: More custom bits.. alloy crossflow radiator + electric fans. Air/air verticle flow intercooler sits in front of radiator where the original radiator was. Engine oil cooler off to one side of intercooler all tucked behind an unmodified front bumper (hopefully).. super sleeper styles. Front valence will likely need some mods for clearance. Will likely have a front lip to disguise things. |